- 1mm: 1mm EPS: 20gsm
- 1mm: 1mm XPS: 30gsm
- 1mm: 1mm Depron: 40gsm
- 0.09mm: 1 pc Paper: 70gsm (A4 is 5g per piece)
- 1mm: 1mm Balsa: 160gsm (10lb/ft3, medium density)
Paper is 11 times thinner than any other 1mm material. Tissue is thinner. Weight of 1mm balsa is equivalent to 8mm EPS, 2.3mm XPS, 1.75mm Depron. 8mm EPS ought to be stronger than 1mm balsa. XPS (Extruded Polystryrene or Styrofoam) has its Compressive strength of 250 kPa, Tensile strength of 450 kPa and Shear strength of 250 kPa. Since I am taking 20gsm for 1mm EPS, while general EPS has compressive strength of between 40 and 72 kPa, the particular 1mm EPS ought to have compressive strength of 20/30*250kPa = 166 kPa.
Gms/m2:
Monokote 75
Doculam 42
Litespan 28
Cellophane 24
Reynolds 14
XPS (Extruded Polystyrene or Styrofoam) has its Compressive strength of 250 kPa, Tensile strength of 450 kPa and Shear strength of 250 kPa.
Candidates for modelling use.
Covering:
- A4 paper, printer
- Store bought coloured paper and tissue
- Expanded or extruded foam (EPS, XPS comes in various density)
- A4 paper, cardboard
- Incense sticks, disposable chopsticks, ice-cream sticks
- Stapler, paper clips
- glue, CA, tape, double sided tape
- Disposable plastic cups
- CF rods, bamboo
- thread
- Pencil, pens, markers, paint, brushes, tape, masking tape, double side tapes
- Tracing paper, saranwrap, rubber bands
- NT cutter
- Files, sanding blocks, sandpaper, plane
- HWC
- Ruler, compass, divider
- Pins, thumbtacks
- foam board, corrugated cardboard, wood
- Soldering iron and solder
- Cutting mat
- 1mm EPS: 20gsm
- 1mm XPS: 30gsm
- 1mm Depron: 40gsm
- 1 pc Paper: 70gsm (A4 is 5g per piece)
- 1mm Balsa: 160gsm (10lb/ft3, medium density)
Balsa
Use of 1/16" balsa wood:
Small sections unless made of firm wood are fragile and does not have insufficient strength, maybe to use larger section, for example if it calls for a 1/8"x1/16" 9lb/ft3 density and I don't have that heavy a wood, increase the size to 3/16"x1/8", this will require some structure changes to the layout to accommodate the larger section.
Use of 1/32" balsa wood:
Even though it is convenient and easy to cut out the entire shape from sheet wood, bear in mind that a frame structure of 1/16" will be stronger and more resilient. This thickness is especially useful for making laminations for curve parts. As 0.8mm is very thin, go with 3 laminates of 1/32".
Windex
I read that windex and other glass cleaner makes the balsa more pliable then with plain water. I don't think I'd use saliva and I have also read that soaking the balsa strips in windex for a few hours is good.
Gussets
This could be from balsa sheet or even bond paper.
Tweezers
I think a pair of tweezers is a useful tool for handling balsa. However, I also think that using tweezers made from metal might crush the balsa. I have read that crushed balsa may be recovered by dipping a bit of water on the affected wood. Maybe a better pair of tweezers may be made from bamboo chopsticks or a folded piece of plastic card?
Other tools
The biggest tool may be the building board. For my case, I think a piece of 1" blue foam is ok.
A tool that may surpass the building board in size would be a frame for stretching tissue. I think there's no easy way to get the tool made, so I think I could just buy a frame from Art Friend. Might as well buy 2 at least, because there's bound to be more than 1 coloured tissue needed. I think I should also get a smaller frame for doping trimmings, A4 sized. To attach the tissue on a wet day, have the frame coated with dope and use thinner to attach the tissue. Any leftovers on the frame may be sanded off and re-doped.
Dope replacement, I think I'll just use thinner and EPS. It is not for doping the completed model, it is only for the attachment of tissue. For final protection, I think I'd just buy a rattlecan of clear lacquer.
Coloured trims will need to be firm enough to handle and crisp enough to cut neatly. I think a doped piece of coloured tissue is good and it can be attached with thinner. I will try this, it may be better than white glue or glue stick. I'll experiment with the dope replacement and the rattlecan. I think the rattle can is also thinner solvent.
Intricate photos may be printed, treated, cutout and applied in a similar manner. Hence the need for a small frame of A4 size.
Kitchen plastic wrap would protect the plan from CA and the underlying building board is also protected.
Pins will be needed, I think the regular tailors' pins are good enough. Other pins and thumb tacks are also useful. Locations requiring temporary anchors may be pinned, against the transferring load or to both sides of the transferring load.
Right angle braces can be made from blue foam and pinned to the board to hold the sides together or to hold the former perpendicular. Is 10 degrees a good dihedral for free flight?
Glue applicator. I normally used excessive glue, I used offcuts of sticks but they lumped easily and seems not to be able to carry sufficient glue. I think I could use the eye of a largish needle to be a glue applicator. Maybe the eye should be cut/grounded as I have read? Or maybe I can just use a soft wire and make the eyelet, seems less 'dangerous'. A 'O' sized nylon brush should also work very well for water solvent glue, it might be ruined and have to be replaced frequently if using superglue.
