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9 December 2024

22 November 2024

For electric free flight

Time Control Toy Electric Free-flying Aircraft Model Assembly Material DIY Vehicle Ship And Fighter Enthusiast Optional Accesso - AliExpress 26

Wow, seems a good combination and versatile.

For propeller shafts

Fishing Tools Accessories | Rotating Lures Accessories | Fishing Accessories Sets - Fishing Tools - Aliexpress

(9 December 2024) Yesterday was a fine Sunday. In the morning I went and purchased a few cheap stuff. BluTac for only $2.50 and a spool of twin corded polyester sewing thread for $1.00. I will use the BluTac as modelling weight, and also as a stopper on the superglue capillary tube, and I will use the thread for tying things together. The rotating lure leader I bought online is thin and springy, it took quite an effort to snap it off because I couldn't cut it cleanly with my small side cutter. The reasons I bought it is primarily for what looks like ready made propeller shafts on the cheap, and also for other modelling use when I need short lengths of springy wire. I played with it on Sunday morning, The short end was made into a tail end motor hook and the long end with the hook was ready to be a propeller shaft. I am going to use this combination for a flying stick model, I think I can use 2 loops of 1/16" rubber to spin the HaoYe 6" propeller. The bearing tube is from a pen's plastic tubing. I wound the tube and a C-shaped paper clip with polyester sewing thread, drizzled superglue. The other end of the paper clip will be similarly winded to a motor stick. I'm thinking of cutting the motor stick from 1/8" balsa sheet. I think I will do up a cross section of 1/8"x1/4"The C-shaped paper clip will allow bending to make thrust line changes. So after the paper clip is wounded, the next step is to install the propeller on the propeller shaft, at this point, I will decide if a bead is to be inserted. I don't think I will bend a winding loop forward of the propeller. It is a stick model, if I have a rubber winder later, I can always wind it from the tail end instead. Make sure that the right angle bend can ride over the propeller ramp. 

With the front end done up, I will use the cheap rubber band (approximately 160mm) to locate the rear hook. The idea is to have enough but not excessive sag. Sag is important for the propeller shaft to be able to ride over the propeller ramp. Too much will mean the rubber band will whip on the motor stick fuselage. After the position is marked, the tail hook will be wounded with polyester sewing thread and stipped in superglue. Then the motor stick is trimmed.

I can have a long motor stick with the tail end to support the rear flying surfaces or I could glue on a tail fuselage to the motor stick. I think I still want that to be 1/8" thick, I could have tapering depth from 3/16" to 1/16". I could also have it as 1/8"x1/8" since it doesn't need to be too strong.

I think the fuselage stick will comprise of the motor stick and the tail stick.

When it can't fly anymore, I can re-use the motor stick (with propeller and rubber) on other stick models or glue it to a NoCal model.

I have also made another propeller bearing by cutting a short plastic section of a pen's tube and insert both ends with the fitting nylon end caps. The end caps have smaller breather holes centrally located. The rotating lure leader wire has less wobble and friction when it inserted through them. It is kind of big though. Maybe this will not be used as a propeller bearing, but I would use it as an autogyro bearing.